Tired of your adjustable tension levers on the BT3K not being tight or loose enough? Replace them with fully adjustable ratcheting levers that allow much more precision in the torque of your rail mounting. These levers are a direct replacement and require no additional parts. Just use the original square t-nut and black washer from the stock plastic lever and bolt combo, and insert this lever instead. This lever can also be positioned such that it locks into place and will not loosen with vibration, but only at the desire of the user. No modification to the saw is required.
They can be used in other areas, but other levers will not fit inside the rail adjustment space.
Installation instructions can be found on the "Installation Instructions" tab on this product page.
The product listing photo shows the original Ryobi lever on the left, the new style on the right.
The BT3K requires two levers per rail, or 4 per saw. You can order any quantity, but to replace all the levers on your saw, order 4 pieces.
INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS
RYOBI BT3000/BT3100
REPLACEMENT ADJUSTABLE LEVERS FOR RAIL ATTACHMENT
Replacing the stock Ryobi rail attachment levers is relatively easy, but does require the partial removal of the front and/or rear rails in order to accomplish the task. One could remove the rail entirely, but it is not necessary.
From this point on, the stock Ryobi lever will be called the old lever, the replacement lever will be called the new lever.
- Loosen both old levers on the rail, and remove any accessory tables on the rails if necessary.
- Slide the rail past one of the old levers so the t-nut is exposed. The rail can stay hooked on the other t-nut for now, if you want.
- Spin off the Ryobi t-nut and set it on the saw, pull the old lever/bolt/washer out and put the black washer with the t-nut. Put the old lever+bolt in your "Spare Ryobi Parts Box" for some other day.
- Put the black washer on the new lever, and insert the assembly into the same place the old lever was.
- With the new lever handle pointing DOWN, Spin on the t-nut until it stops, then back it off between 1/4-1/2 turn (try 1/4 first, 1/2 if you need it more loose).
- Slide the rail back over the t-nut like the rail was originally. You may have to adjust the t-nut very slightly if it's too tight, but don't go too far (max 1/2 turn from snug should be plenty, but t-nuts may differ).
- The lever can now be turned to tighten the rail. Push the lever away from the rail (toward the saw body) to free-swivel the lever to another position, and release to engage the internal teeth so you can turn the threaded stud and tighten the t-nut. Play with it a couple times to get the feel of the ratchet/tighten/loosen process.
- Repeat on the other old lever by loosening the new lever and sliding the rail the opposite way and start at #2 again.
You can prevent the new lever from loosening the tension on the rail by tightening the lever to where you want, push it back to free-swivel it to the left as far as it will go (handle goes clockwise, or in the "loosening direction," and then let it snap back into place in the ratchet teeth.
If it tries to loosen via vibration, etc, the lever will hit the saw frame and not turn any further.
Likely it won't loosen anyway, but it is an option for the user.